Taking Pictures at the Zoo

No vacation is complete without spending an entire afternoon toddling around the nearest zoo, no matter its size, prestige or jail-like qualities.  The family is wrangled, the stroller fleet is assembled, the water bottles are filled, the sunscreen is applied and the patience is tested.  A zoo can provide a great mix of entertainment for the whole family, inspiring young minds to care and older visitors to donate.  Educational and exciting, zoos are also a fantastic place to bring a camera along.  With no time limit to the day, a photographer can spend as much or as little time examining each exhibit capturing the personalities of every animal.  Though there are some tough limitations and boundaries placed on zoo photography (such as fences, glass walls, nap times and weather), it is not impossible to capture memorable pictures.

The best way to start a successful day of photography at the zoo is to plan ahead.  Know where you are going, when it opens and what day you will be there.  It is best to go on a slow day, if possible.  Mondays, Tuesdays and Thursday are typically good days to expect fewer people.  There is nothing more annoying than seeing your potential shot of an orangutan family only to get shut out by a family of nine.  Pay attention to weather forecasts; sunny days are great but slightly overcast days are even better.  Incredibly bright light can ruin what could have been a great picture.  Do not plan a visit to the zoo at lunch time.  High noon is nap time in the animal kingdom.  Look at the zoo's website ahead of time; sometimes they list when certain animals will disappear for hours on end to recharge their batteries.  While you are at it, look to see if the zoo posts a schedule for feedings.  It is not too often you can take a picture of a lion wolfing down a small animal.  Take advantage of these opportunities.

It cannot be stressed enough that a camera and a zoom lens (if available) will suffice at the zoo.  Extra batteries, memory cards and a shoulder strap are all that is necessary.  There is no need for multiple cameras, extra flashes or cumbersome long-range lenses.  Do not be intimidated by the unique opportunity to photograph a cheetah in its (faux) natural habitat and feel it necessary to bring too much stuff.  Some zoos even discourage the use of tripods to limit time shutter happy individuals spend in prime locations.  If no one is around, by all means take your precious time, but be courteous to the other paying customers.  A bigger camera does not make you special.  (If you are going to do professional work at the zoo, disregard this paragraph.  Bring all the equipment you need.)   

Once you get to the zoo, grab a map and plan your course of action.  For instance, take all the outdoor photos at the same time, group together indoor exhibits and save long range shots to be taken together.  Switching back from one setting to the other can be time-consuming.  Do not be that person who misses a chimpanzee eating lice from its child because you were turning off your flash.  Planning your route can make the day go by smoothly and successfully.  

Outdoor shots are relatively simple regardless of the camera type.  With a compact or subcompact camera, turning it on will do the trick.  Most are automatically set to adjust to the surroundings.  You can choose between portrait, landscape, motion and nighttime settings.  The safest bet is to select a daytime setting with a sunlight or natural light option.  If the animal in question is in fact being active, feel free to switch to the motion setting.  Once you take a subcompact into a reptile house, it gets tricky.  The low light and the glass walls prevent a truly quality shot.  That is no one's fault.  The flash on a subcompact camera is so close to the lens that the glare is horrific bouncing off of glass.  And without a flash, your image just looks more like a still from a horror film.