by Gregg Hickman

With camera manutacturers, as you move up the line of their SLR product offerings you step up in the camera's ability to precisely set exposure for you. The Canon Elan 7 is no exception and is a significant step up from the entry level Rebel 2000. In fact, the Elan 7 has a 35 zone metering system and will out perform the ability of most manual photographers. This means that when you push the shutter release in Program setting the camera will almost perfectly select the correct exposure. You may of course set the exposure to manual, as with Canon's vintage 1960 FTB camera, if, for some unknown reason you want to.

Today the lens of choice seems to be the longer and front heavy lenses (i.e.: 28-105mm, 28-200mm). With almost any 35 SLR you quickly learn that the addition of one of these lenses changes the ergonomics and balance of the camera and the Elan 7/7E this is no exception. Enter the extremely ergonomic battery pack, BP-300. The grip of the battery pack extends the camera body length to fill even the smallest hand, eliminating the need for white-knuckle griping, thus reducing the amount of camera shake caused by such a tight grip. It also offers the controls for vertical shutter release and AE Lock. Since the BP 300 is a battery pack let's talk about the batteries for a moment. You may use the common AA type of alkaline or NiMH rechargeable cells or the long life and virtually leak proof Lithium CR-123. Normally, I would suggest using 2 of the CR-123's, like the camera uses. This way if you are in a remote location that doesn't readily sell the CR-123, you can pop the 4 AA's out of your flash and power the grip to continue shooting. If you are planning on purchasing the Elan 7 with any more than a fixed 50mm lens (which I have not seen a use for in years,) the BP-300 is not an accessory, it is a requirement! Owning the Elan 7 / 7E without the BP-300 is like going outside without your pants on!

A feature not found in most cameras, until you get into very high end product, is the Mirror Lock-Up (MLU). The setting of this function is not as convenient as it could be, but at least it has it. MLU requires moving the Command Dial to Custom Function setting mode (CFn), rotating the Main Dial to CFn #5, followed by pushing the AE Lock/CFn button, and then the shutter release. Easier than it sounds once you do it. The Mirror remains up for a maximum of 30 seconds and if no exposure follows it returns on its own.

Practical use of MLU is to remove the vibration and shake of the mirror's motion (its inertia) when using very long lenses or long exposures and I have found it priceless when needed BUT only VERY rarely does the need arise.

That brings up Custom Function Settings (CFn's). The Elan 7 has 13 CFn's that you may use to customize your camera to operate the way YOU like, from film rewind speed and flash sync speed to focusing point selection method.

Maximum flash sync shutter speed is 125th second, this is pretty good but I wish at this price point (about $500 USD) we could get a shutter capable of a 250th. Slower maximum flash sync speed is the major reason that outside fill flash photos fail our expectations in very bright light. A 125th of a second is adequate to do most environmental portrait settings as long as you invest in a very powerful external flash.

As far as built-in Pop-Up flashes go, the Elan 7 has one. Whoopee! To me, a major reason to purchase an SLR is to improve your flash pictures. Too many people confuse the Pop-Up flash with a REAL flash. If it is all the flash you need, why is there an ISO Hot Shoe on top of the camera? Hopefully we are buying an SLR to take better pictures. To take better flash pictures requires a diffused light source well away from the lens. The Elan 7 has more than enough high-end flash control built into the body. All we need to add is a real flash that is bounce capable and designed for use with the camera's system. Then we add a flash diffuser like the Lumiquest Pocket Bouncer (~$24.95.) The higher pivoting head flash like the 420EX or 550EX that elevates the flash tube high enough to reduce red-eye. Adding a diffuser totally eliminates any chance of red-eye and softens the light creating more studio-like lighting. There is nothing worse than a straight ahead flash picture that bleaches your subject white, and flattens any depth perception. The Pop-Up flash does have its purpose. It is useful as a daylight fill-flash to fill in deep shadows on a very close subject. It, like every other brand I have seen, does not have enough power to illuminate a typical scene by itself. They also cast a shadow on the bottom of the picture from the built-in flash's illumination when large front objective lenses or big lens-hoods are used. With the popularity of 28-200mm or 28-300mm lenses and their hoods, this is a real problem.

The "E-TTL Unwired" flash capability is also very impressive. By using a 550EX flash or the Transmitter (ST-E2) on the camera, they can control any number or 420 or 550EX flashes off camera as slave illumination that are TTL (through the lens) controlled. Fabulous for a down and dirty quickie of a portrait anywhere, But EXPENSIVE!

The focus control system is very slick on the Elan 7 with its 7 area focusing points (wonder where they came up with the name). They are set a little wider than some other brands and this helps when the subject you want focused is away from the center of the viewfinder. The Elan 7E takes it a step much further! The Only difference between the 7 and the 7E is the "Eye Control" focus locator. It allows the camera's focus to follow your eye in the viewfinder. As your central vision (pupil) travels from one of the focusing points to the next, the camera changes focusing points with you. The Calibration to your eye is a little process you must accomplish but not too bad and works as long as you don't switch glasses or to NO glasses. It does have 5 calibration memory positions so there is more than enough for your variables and some left for other photographers as well. This is a feature that some love and some wish they had their $50-$60 extra dollars back because after the newness wears off they don't use it. The Feature is a choice you must make before you buy, as it can't be added. They are 2 separate cameras.

With all this "automation" it sounds like the Elan 7 / 7E will make you a professional photographer. And it can get you precisely exposed negatives that are in focus. You still need to compose. That comes from burning lots of film and wanting to critique your composition by yourself or with help. The length of time it takes for you to best apply all the technology and get great shots is where your local camera dealer can make all the difference.

Canon has done a very good job on this camera. I believe it is one worth the investment due to its ergonomic, useable and durable design. It is a system you can own for a long time to come. A word of caution I try to always extend: Remember when the magic box that holds the film has done it's magic, there is one thing between your subject and the film ... IT IS THE LENS!   Don't scrimp on the glass!

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